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- Choose the right blade before you start: When you saw through very thick stock, each saw tooth cuts out an enormous amount of waste. And to maintain a reasonably productive feed rate, there should be room for the waste to occupy until the tooth emerges from the cut. Blades with about 3 teeth per inch have large gullets that can take as much waste as you will produce, just by sawing through thick stock. You can try the wood slicer. The wood slicer has a thin kerf variable pitch 3 – 4 tpi design, making it the smoothest and quietest re-saw blade available on the market.
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- Tension on the blade for a better performance: A sufficient tension on the blade helps to keep the stock centered even if your control isn’t exactly flawless, it also reduces the tendency of the blade from fluttering under thrust. It is considerably easy get your desired amount of tensioning. Have a wood slicer on your saw with lateral guides and thrust bearings opened up and backed off both above the table and also below the table so that they do not have any contact with the blade. When the saw is unplugged, put on some more tension and gently give the blade some a sharp sideways poke, using your index finger just halfway between the upper and lower wheels.
- Adjust your blade guide: Once you have the blade tensioned, and you are sure that it is tracking properly, you will need to do some tuning so as to increase the potential for performance. So, before you begin to bring your lateral guide and thrust bearings anywhere close to the blade, you should close the wheel covers, plug the saw and then turn it on. You should ensure that the blade tracks well at full speed, and as you keep a close eye on this, you should also adjust the tracking setting as necessary. You should keep an eye on the blade. If you notice that the vibration blurs the blade, you should try to either increase or decrease the tension slightly, just until the blade is operating smoothly in a straight, quiet line, from wheel to wheel.
- Steering your work piece: All you need to do to cut on a straight line is to know just how the saw wants to go about doing it, and you should do exactly as it wants. All bandsaws can cut straight lines, this is except if there is something functionally wrong with it, but know this, they will do their thing their own way, and your job is to follow. Blades have their own lead angle and this may differ from the straight ahead. So, if you are re-sawing just one or two pieces, it would be easier if you used a point block fence – a fence that is tall enough for you to hold your stock in an upright position, leaving the feed direction for you to handle manually.